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    Yapahuwa

    A Day Trip From Kandy to Yapahuwa

    Yapahuwa, a captivating historical landmark in Sri Lanka’s Northwestern Province, offers a unique experience of an often-overlooked cultural site. A day trip from Kandy to Yapahuwa reveals a rich tapestry of history, stunning scenery, and architectural marvels against a picturesque backdrop. This extraordinary stone citadel from the Middle Ages has a significant cultural connection to China. Its history provides insight into Sri Lanka’s past during the Middle Ages and the transition of kingdoms southward from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa.

    Sri Lanka’s Yapahuwa citadel, or “Yapawwa,” held a brief status as the nation’s capital from 1273 to 1284. Located between Anuradhapura and Kurunegala, this complex was not consistently a royal centre. It originated as a military outpost around 1215 under General Subhapabbota (Subha). King Bhuvenakabahu I, in search of a secure location, transformed Yapahuwa into a splendid citadel featuring a rock fortress, royal palace, and Buddhist temple.

    Rising dramatically from the plains, the Yapahuwa rock reaches an impressive height of 90 metres. While the northern, eastern, and western faces ascend nearly vertically, forming a natural defence system, the southern side features a gentler slope. Carved steps and terraces were constructed here, providing the only access to the summit. A fortified city wall to the south of the rock offered additional protection.

    Situated in the Kurunegala District, near the main railway junction of Maho, Yapahuwa lies halfway between Colombo and Anuradhapura. It takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach from either location.

    Highlights
    • The Yapahuwa Citadel
    • Architecture featuring Chinese Symbolism
    • The stone staircase and doorway
    • Summit Ruins and Views
    • Cave Temples
    • Archaeological Museum

    Location and Best Times to Visit

    Yapahuwa is most easily accessed from Kandy, which is about an hour and a half away. Due to the cooler temperatures during this period, November to January are the ideal months to visit.

    Yapahuwa’s name translates to “outstanding hill” or “excellent mountain,” which is a fitting description of this majestic rock that rises above the surrounding plains. Often referred to as Sri Lanka’s “Second Sigiriya,” this rock fortress served as the short-lived capital of the country during the late 13th century. Inhabited by monks and hermits for centuries before, Yapahuwa gained significant importance when King Bhuvanaikabahu I (1271-1283 A.D.) sought a secure location to protect the sacred Tooth Relic during a time of invasion and turmoil. This period saw the construction of magnificent structures, transforming Yapahuwa into a royal citadel. Following King Bhuvanaikabahu’s death, Yapahuwa fell victim to an invasion from which it never recovered. The Pandyans transported the Sacred Tooth Relic to South India after the invasion. However, Bhuvanaikabahu’s nephew and successor, Parakramabahu III (128

    Yapahuwa is a captivating historical site that recounts Sri Lanka’s rich past and its connections with neighbouring countries. The architecture of the citadel features the intriguing “Chinese dragon hybrid lion” statues. Replicas of this motif can be found across Sri Lanka, including on notable buildings like the Independence Monument in Colombo. These intricate figures reflect the cultural exchanges experienced by Yapahuwa’s kingdom with China and various regions of Asia during its reign.

    The Yapahuwa stairway features two truly monumental lion sculptures, the largest in ancient Sri Lanka and an emblem of the site. These majestic figures, depicted in a complex half-kneeling, half-sitting posture, stand out for their distinctive style. Unlike other lion sculptures in Sri Lanka, they resemble their Chinese counterparts, particularly in their wild manes and prominent eyes. This influence likely stems from the increased trade between China and Sri Lanka during the 13th century. While historical maritime trade routes often involved intermediaries, this period witnessed a shift with the rise of the Yuan dynasty. The Yuan emperors, who established Beijing as their capital, sent an expedition to Sri Lanka in 1284, possibly with Marco Polo aboard. Although they aimed to obtain the sacred Tooth Relic, the encounter undoubtedly fostered cultural exchange. Further evidence of this connection lies in the significant number of Chinese coins unearthed at Yapahuwa, a testament to the flourishing trade relations between the Yapahuwa kingdom and the Chinese Empire.

    The Yapahuwa Rock
    Fortress and Museum Hours: 8 am to 5 pm daily. Tickets are $5 for adults. (Prices current as of September 2025)

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    Ruins at the Base of the Fortress

    Ruins at the Base of the Fortress

    Ruins at the Base of the Fortress

    At the foot of Yapahuwa rock lie the foundations of a mysterious structure, often referred to as an assembly hall. While its exact purpose remains unclear, it lacks the central pillars typical of such halls, suggesting an atrium-like design with a partially open roof. This, together with its elevated terrace, hints at a possible royal palace function, although stone construction was generally reserved for sacred buildings. Flanking the simple stairway leading up are two balustrades with basic carvings. West of this structure lies another longer and narrower foundation, adding to the intrigue of Yapahuwa's past city layout.

    The Grand Stairway

    The Grand Stairway

    The Grand Stairway

    Undoubtedly the crown jewel of Yapahuwa’s ruins, this ornate stairway is a masterpiece of craftsmanship, flanked by intricate carvings and sculptures that narrate tales of a bygone era and cross-cultural connections. Its unique design incorporates elements of both Sri Lankan and Southeast Asian styles, with its sides adorned with exquisite carvings that reflect Sri Lankan artistry. The overall design is truly one of a kind. Yet, the decorative ornaments at the peak, known as acroteria, resemble elevated state temples found in Cambodia, suggesting Sri Lanka's increased interaction with Southeast Asia during the 13th century.

    The Doorway: Upon reaching the summit, you will be greeted by an impressive doorway that once led to the royal palace and possibly the Tooth Relic chamber. Take a moment to appreciate the exquisite bas-reliefs depicting musicians and dancers, showcasing the artistic brilliance of the era.


    The Summit

    The Summit

    The Summit

    For the adventurous, a challenging yet rewarding climb to the peak awaits. The panoramic views of the verdant plains below will leave you breathless. You will also uncover remnants of an ancient stupa and a dagoba here. Reaching the summit of Yapahuwa Rock demands a moderately challenging ascent, but the stunning vistas are certainly worth the effort. Head left from the doorway and follow the path to the upper terrace.

    The summit also reveals a fascinating group of rock shelters that hint at Yapahuwa's past as a thriving Buddhist monastery complex. Known as Sundaragiripawwa in the Anuradhapura era, Yapahuwa is just one of many examples of resident monks using mountains and rocks for their spiritual development. Ancient Brahmi inscriptions found near some caves offer further evidence of their use during that period.

    The Cave Temples (Kandyan Period)

    The Cave Temples (Kandyan Period)

    At ground level, visitors encounter the Yapawwa Rajamaha Vihara, a cave temple from the Kandyan era. Restored in the 18th century, this place of worship serves as the monastery's image house and offers a glimpse into the island's Buddhist revival. Although the interior features more recent, vibrant decorations, remnants of historical paintings and sculptures can still be found within the main cave, hinting at the rich past concealed beneath the surface.

    Yapahuwa Museum

    Yapahuwa Museum

    Yapahuwa Museum

    Although modest, the newly relocated Yapahuwa Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the city's past. Inside, impressive stone sculptures of Vishnu and Kali stand guard. However, the true stars of the exhibit are the displays showcasing the extensive trade connections enjoyed by Yapahuwa. Chinese coins with square holes for threading, alongside exquisite Chinese ceramics (despite the fact that the finest pieces now reside in Colombo's National Museum), provide undeniable evidence of a strong East Asian link. King Buwanekabahu's robust diplomatic ties with China are further emphasized by the museum's crown jewel: a pierced stone window from the palace doorway. This masterpiece of Sri Lankan art features 45 intricately carved circles, each depicting a unique figure, allowing light and air to filter through the space. A companion window is also displayed in Colombo's National Museum.


    Maho’s Train “Turntable”

    Maho’s Train “Turntable”

    Maho’s Train “Turntable”

    Located just 4 km from Yapahuwa is Maho (Mahawa) Railway Junction. Witness the “twirling train” at this junction, where trains bound for the north and east stop, while a ground mechanism turns the engine around to send trains back to their destination. A railway turntable, also known as a wheelhouse, is a piece of railway equipment used to rotate trains, typically locomotives. This was particularly important during the era of steam locomotives, as they could not efficiently travel in reverse. This process still occurs at Maho station, adding a touch of excitement when you travel to Yapahuwa by train.

    Conclusion

    Discover a glimpse of Sri Lanka’s Middle Ages at Yapahuwa, surrounded by its captivating landscape. The ancient rock fortress overlooks the scenery, providing unique photographic opportunities and enchanting moments. The blend of intricate stone architecture and sweeping vistas will leave you with cherished memories.

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    Address
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    Inner Bagatalle Road,
    Colombo 03,
    Sri Lanka.

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